The Hoxton Pony

This time it was a rather different evening of cocktails and cupcakes at one of the trendiest establishments in Shoreditch; a rather hard status to achieve in that particular borough! I used to visit Hoxton quite a lot when my sister lived there, temporarily renting a room in an unbelievably cool artist’s warehouse from a friend of a friend. The rent – even reduced – was almost equally as unbelievable. Having not ventured to this part of London in a while, this time I didn’t feel like sinking into the ground with my un-stylishness.

It was pleasant to realise that I feel more confident in my own appearance, because arriving to live in London for the first time during July last year was a bit of a culture shock. I had never inhabited a place so obviously crammed full of people that had more money than me, tourist or otherwise. Also given the fact that the only clothes shop within two miles of where I live now is Dorothy Perkins – there are two!

Still, everyone seems to become breath-takingly beautiful only a short bus journey from the Topshop-free zone, testifying once again to the dazzling mysteries of life in the capital city.

I think I’ve come a long way since that naïve beginning, having held down several CV-worthy jobs, generated an active social life, almost completed an English Literature Masters and also currently preparing for an interview in the arts. Not to mention making the most of everything there is to do here! The Hoxton Pony was actually geographically easy to find, my sister and I both equipped with GoogleMaps on our precious iPhones.

The ‘cocktail tea party’ consisted of four cupcakes on a beautiful cake stand – the kind with the ballerina legs protruding from the top – and a glass infusion jar containing an alcoholic concoction chosen from well-written menu. The china cups were pretty and everything attractively decorated (possibly excepting some wall art that was basically shards of twisted metal from what must have been a huge pile-up), though the barmaid failed to bring us the knife we asked for and there was actually no tea involved. The establishment having seemed potentially awkward and out of our league, it actually encouraged lively conversation whilst providing a comfortable environment in which to relax. The cakes were delicious, apparently made to order, and I personally was a little tipsy from the infusion upon our exit.

The best feature of the Pony was the impeccably friendly and professional service. We were made to feel like honoured guests, despite our Groupon, very much unlike that awful hotel in Bloomsbury mentioned in a previous post (‘The Mercure’ – don’t bother with it!). Perhaps hipsters in central East London are more in tune with thriftiness.

Despite the ups and downs, and perhaps because of them, it’s been an exciting and educational tea tour so far. As the deadline for my dissertation has loomed quicker than I would have ideally preferred, I’m not sure I’ll have time for another tea stop before the last word on Virginia Woolf and the ubiquitous cuppa has to be written, but this will not be the end. This endeavour shall continue even after that last sheaf of paper disappears behind the English Course Desk, filed away to be scrutinised and marked. 

Slight clash of time periods. Reminiscent of the lush twenties and yet with a twist of modern-day glamour. 

Le Chandelier

The next stop on the tearoom tour is located at 161 Lordship Lane, East Dulwich, SE22 8XH. Having never ventured into the area before, I was pleasantly surprised by the relaxed and quiet high street, as well as the enticing array of restaurants, cafes and boutiques to be found in the district. A particularly interesting shop was called Mrs. Robinson (http://www.mrsrobinsonshop.co.uk/), offering a large selection of retro-style goods that made me wish I wasn’t a poor, struggling student. Opposite the shop was the tearoom itself, and just like its website (http://www.lechandelier.co.uk/) it is simple, elegant and appealing; just like the tearoom itself.

The front is finished in rose and mushroom, boasting an outside seating area, occupied with a scattering of delicate wrought-iron garden seats. Le Chandelier itself has a very homely - though stylishly contemporary – interior, satisfyingly crammed with a myriad of chairs, sofas and tables. The patisserie near the entrance was loaded with enticing cakes and the signature symbol of the tearoom, the upside-down ballerina legs, decorated many of the goods. The staff were wonderfully welcoming, and the thinly disguised South London twangs were only faintly amusing.

The establishment is much bigger than it looks from the outside, and we were quickly seated at our reserved table. The crockery spread over the wooden surface was a delightful array of floral patterned antiques, contrasted with the rather modern glass tea strainers that replaced teapots. Near our table a large watercolour illustration of the tea party from Lewis Carroll’s Alice in Wonderland emblazoned the wall.

The food and drink itself was more than satisfactory, and I myself sampled the vanilla flavoured black tea. It was very sweet and certainly didn’t require the entire sugar cube I dumped in it. The scones were fresh, warm from the oven, and though the helpings of cream were a little meagre the friendly waitress lost no time in topping us up with a whole bowlful upon request.

I consider this my first authentic afternoon tea experience in London, which captures the piquant and yet serene atmosphere so integral to a good tea. Very different from the austere opulence of the historical Dorchester hotel, at £7.45 for scones and tea it offers reasonably good value for money and the unbeatable taste of nostalgia for a time in which you've never lived. 

High Tea... On the High Seas?

http://hightea.wellcomeapps.com/

A tea game from the Wellcome Trust! <3

Afternoon Tea in Bloomsbury

For my dissertation I am doing a tearoom tour of London. The subject of my research is tea in the time of Virginia Woolf (one of the most respected and well-read modernist writers), whose life spanned the late Victorian period to the beginning of the Second World War, and whose work mainly focused on the city and its inhabitants, with historical events a casual backdrop often discussed between the characters over tea and cakes. Afternoon tea was a national institution, particularly for the upper classes who observed a myriad of intricate rules for its service. In my thesis I assert that the propensity in the modernist literary imagination for the tea table betrays a nostalgia for the certainty of Victorian hierarchical society, contrary to a popular belief that the modernists rejected anything traditional or established. My study reveals how even the most avante-garde and elite artists still enjoy a good cuppa.

While many things were changing for the better in the early twentieth century, such as vastly increased independence and rights for women, as well as the onset of capitalism sweeping away the dominance of the landed aristocracy, it is evident that there was a prevalent sense of identity crisis. With traditional gender and class structures waning, the renegotiation of social roles became frequent, and taking tea was one way in which to do this. During the nineteenth century, women were revered as the angels of the tea table who elegantly dispensed the rejuvenating drink to the hard-working men, the servants of empire. Slowly tea-time began to morph into a ubiquitous pastime that transcended class boundaries and became a staple of the day; that bastion in the bleak time between lunch and dinner.

In order to fully immerse myself in the real history of this intriguing social more, I am embarking upon a tour of London’s tearooms. My first stop was the Dorchester Hotel in Knightsbridge (http://www.thedorchester.com/, and featured as hosting the tennis players in the romcom, Wimbledon!), as a Christmas present from my boyfriend and a most luxurious afternoon. Unfortunately I shall not be reviewing that, but I will review afternoon tea at the Mercure hotel, Bloomsbury, London (pronunciation of which is still unknown, http://www.mercure.com/gb/united-kingdom/index.shtml), with one of my best friends.

            My expectations were naturally very high after a very expensive tea in a plush West end hotel, though not so distorted that it was unfair to say my experience in Bloomsbury (my favourite area of London, I might add, before I realised that only very wealthy people are allowed to live north of the river) was rather mediocre. I was particularly excited by the fact that this area of London is overtly associated with Woolf herself and her literary circle. However, apart from an extremely genial Chinese man who welcomed us into the hotel out of the summer rain, there was a lack of ceremony to a meal that is mainly about presentation and behaving traditionally. This means that the serving staff are polite but not too familiar (think the opposite end of the scale to TGI Friday’s, which is nonetheless an excellent chain of restaurants, and more along the lines of Café Rouge), formal enough without being pretentious. The waiter we had seemed a bit beleaguered and none too keen to wait on us after we handed over our Groupon, though I’m mystified as to why companies sign up to these schemes if they are resentful at honouring them! One reason for the chilled reception might have been the sight of us whipping out our notebooks as soon as we sat down, but at no point did we do anything socially unacceptable, and staff must remain professional at all times!